Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
